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To the Reconstruction of Mariupol Greeks Traditional Costume of the Late 19th Century

Heading: 
1Aradzhyoni, MA
1PhD (History) A. Yu. Krymskyi Institute of Oriental Studies, NAS of Ukraine 4, Hrushevskoho Str., Kyiv, 01001, Ukraine margarad24@gmail.com
Shodoznavstvo 2021, 88:3-38
https://doi.org/10.15407/skhodoznavstvo2021.88.003
Section: History
Language: Ukrainian
Abstract: 

Mariupol Greeks are a part of historical Greek diaspora that was formed at the territory of modern Ukraine, particularly in the Southern Crimea, in the times of the Byzantine Empire and Crimean Khanate. In 1778–1780 this community resettled to Pryazovia (the area of north coast of the Sea of Azov) where they started to be called “Mariupol Greeks”. They consist of two language groups of Hellenophone Greeks (the Romeiis) and Turkophone Greeks (the Urums) whose languages are now endangered. Traditional costume complex of Mariupol Greeks was lost back at the beginning of the last century. Despite some attempts of its reconstruction, nowadays there is not established image of the costume which could reflect cultural peculiarities of this community and visually distinguish it among other groups of historical Greek diaspora of the Black Sea region. The article briefly considers the history of exploring the traditional costume of Mariupol Greeks and the available sources for its research. It describes and illustrates the main elements of male and female clothing, festive and casual. Appropriate terminology is given in the languages of the Hellenophone and Turkophone Greeks. Some analogies have been made with the regional costumes of the Greeks, Crimean Tatars, Karaites, and others. It is emphasized that the traditional costume of the Mariupol Greeks was formed in the Crimea and is the product of long-term cultural interference that had been taking place over several centuries. It is proved that the costume of the Mariupol Greeks has its own specifics, although it retains certain features inherent in the folk costume of other groups of the Greek diaspora, as well as the influence of Eastern cultures. The author provides recommendations for the reproduction of male and female costumes of the Mariupol Greeks, as well as draws attention to the need to reconstruct the fabrics, accessories and ornaments of the Greek costume on the samples that are stored in museum collections.

Keywords: Crimea, folk costume, Greeks, Mariupol

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